pH correction question

[Aeroed]

My pH testing and correction kit (from GH) was just delivered. I tested the pH of the water in the reservoir for my ruby heirloom tomatoes and it was very low (4.0 or below). I corrected it, no problem, but I have a question for future corrections. Should I correct the pH of the water I use before or after adding it to the Aerogarden?

note: I used distilled water

Thanks in advance! 

[bab43]

Instructions I've read say it's best to do it before.  But since pH can drift in the garden itself, and can also be caused by the nutrients in the garden, I often adjust the garden itself.  In that case I add just a bit of the product at a time and let it run for a day to make sure it doesn't go too far the other way.

[AeroKnipp]

I add one regular Aspirin or 1/2 tsp. of vinegar per gallon of water that has been aged for a couple of days before I start up a new tank. That lowers the PH by about one point.

[Aeroed]

It makes sense to correct the water before you add it. That way you know you're putting "good" water into the garden. I'll do that and check the reservoir tomorrow to see how much the pH drifts.

Thanks guys!

[bab43]

Hopefully you won't see it drifting that quickly - I'd be interested.

I saw your other post on the Ruby Heirlooms as well.  My pH hadn't gone down as low as yours, it was at 5.5, but I think it has slowed down the development of buds.  I've also found that the AG nutrients tend to bring the pH down.  I don't think all nutrients have that effect....

[Aeroed]

What brand and type of nutrients would you recommend using for tomatoes instead?

I also have an AG3 with herbs (basil, thyme and chives). Can I use the same nutrients?

[bab43]

I'm using the AG nutrients for my heirloom tomatoes, but am using General Hydroponics three-part flora series in some of my AG3 gardens now.  It's used by a number of the members and I've only read good things about it on the forum.  "http://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/floraseries.html".

The thing is, once you start on liquid nutrients you'll also have to get into measuring nutrient strength, which means getting an EC or TDS meter.  The AeroGrow two week feeding schedule is intended to simplify all that.  Now if you already have a meter, then once you have the nutrients, you're set to go.

In case this is new to you, there's a good series of guides on another forum which I found explained the process quite well. "http://aerogardenmastery.com/drupal/content/peats-guide-hydroponics-aerogarden" (you have to be a member to download).  It should give you an idea of what's involved.  The only caution I would give is that some of the members of this forum have tried rockwool in their machines and didn't have success with it.

This forum has a download for recommended EC-TDS values for different crops at "http://www.aerogardengrowers.com/index.php/topic,2619.msg30059.html#msg30059".  This would be for mature crops - you would grow your seedlings at lower values.

Hope this helps. 

[Aeroed]

Marianne, thanks so much for all the help. Kudos too 

This is my first real attempt at gardening so I'm a complete garden noob. I don't have a meter or any other type of garden aides/tools. I'll use the links you've provided and do some research. Thanks again!

[bab43]

You're welcome. 

I thought I'd better add that changing to liquid nutrients may not prevent the pH from drifting, I don't have enough experience with them yet to be able to judge.  I grew about eight gardens before trying a switch to liquid from the AG nutrients and so far it's going well.  My reason for switching is that I was finding the nutrient levels high in my AG3s in the first few days after adding the tablets.

[Sharon]

Kathy, I've just started using distilled white vinegar to bring down the pH, and I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one!

Does anybody know of any drawbacks to using vinegar to adjust pH?

[AeroKnipp]

I actually stopped measuring PH about 2 weeks ago. The reason I got all the AGs in the first place was to grow things quickly and to save time. I have decided to watch foliage for signs of stress or nutrient inadequacies and only take action if necessary.

On another note, the General Hydroponics Diamond Nectar lowers PH. Starting up a new tank with DH might be all the PH tweaking you need to do.

[Sharon]

Diamond Nectar.  What a brilliant name.  Whoever at GH came up with that name should get a promotion.

Kathy, do you know anything more about it? 

[AeroKnipp]

DIAMOND NECTAR™
Liquid Premium Organic Humic Acid

Despite the low level of nutrients found in natural soil-based environments, plant growth nevertheless occurs because the smallest humic acids channel available nutrients directly into nearby vegetation. By accelerating nutrient absorption at the root boundary zone where minerals enter the plant, small particle sized humic acids optimize nutrient uptake in fast growing vegetation. Diamond Nectar applies the magic of the smallest available humic acids to nutrient rich hydroponic environments by grabbing these nutrient minerals and transporting them into plant roots for faster growth and higher yields. Diamond Nectar supercharges your nutrients in order to optimize the health of your plants and the quality of your crops.

Due to the natural nature of this organic product, variations in color may occur. Be assured each batch of Diamond Nectar is tested for consistent quality and results you can count on.

Diamond Nectar is available in the following quantities:
•1 Quart
•2.5 Gallon
•6 Gallon


http://genhydro.com/genhydro_US/diamondnectar.html